Richman's Toys RC Batmobile 1989 NIB Tested Works Original Box!

For sale is my one owner Rich Man’s Toys Batmobile Serial Number 0849. It is new in box. I did unbox it and ensure that it runs. I have installed new AA batteries in the rear so that it will run for you when you receive it. It does not include the 7.2 volt main drive battery.  This is a universal battery obtained from amazon:  https://www.amazon.com/GOLDBAT-3600mAh-Connector-Associated-Quadcopter/dp/B07M8H41YH/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2IE7XWM3BLB8Z&keywords=7.2+volt+rc+car+battery&qid=1691715148&sprefix=7.2+volt+rc+car+battery%2Caps%2C125&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1, for example. If you store the toy, please remove these batteries as they would eventually corrode. They are mounted with sturdy zip ties as per factory instructions, so they don’t bounce around. These batteries power the steering mechanism. To remove/access these batteries remove the 4 screws and gently lift of the body. You do not need to remove the two transverse screws in the wheel wells. I inserted my own 7.2 volt car battery pack to test the car. It goes forward, back, turns. All working normally. When you test the car yourself, it is to be set on a 2x4 block to raise the wheels off the ground. This is to confirm that the car is neutral, in other words that the front wheels are straight ahead, and the rear wheels do not turn, until you use the pistol control. There you test the steering, and the forward backward, all on the block for testing. The car will only work if the instructions are exactly followed. First the pistol grip must be turned on. It has a dim light on the side showing it is active with proper voltage batteries. 2 nd the switch on the bottom of the car must be turned to “ON”. 3 rd , the 7.2 volt battery pack is installed. This may sound wrong, but if the switches are not on first, the car will not operate. It has some kind of safety feature that shuts it off. The antenna “mast” is a hollow plastic tube with flexible antenna wire inside. I have taped it to the body of the car for shipping. It is still connected to the receiver inside. Just slip the tube into the small hole. There is a bit of slack in the antenna. There are no operating parts where the antenna goes inside. The original box has some shelf wear over 20 plus years. As seen in the photos there are some deformations at the corner of the thin box cardboard. I have gently wiped off some of the shelf dust. Controller: I have installed new 8 each AA batteries in the controller for you. They read at 1.6 volts, so fully charged up, new. The factory instructions to replace these batteries is somewhat vague. There is a sliding tray holding the batteries at the base of the controller. It is a very tight fit. Care must be taken to not damage the controller when changing the batteries. To remove batteries gently press the black plastic tab at the end of the tray, and wiggle/slide the tray out about ¾ inch. This will allow the left top rail of the tray to slip out of its groove, and the tray should lever open with the whole right rail acting like a hinge. The batteries are quite tight and will pop up just a bit as you open it. This is a clue as to how to install the new batteries. With new batteries in the tray, it might be tempting to try to force them to lay flat in the tray. This will not work. You will find the center batteries want to pop up. As I said, the tolerances are tight. Instead, you put the batteries in the tray, allowing the center “joints” of the batteries to be slightly popped up. Engage the right rail of the tray to the pistol such that the tray is about ¾” pulled out. You lever over the pistol down towards the left rail, and the base of the pistol will contact those slightly raised batteries. At this point you gently wiggle the pistol down, which presses those center batteries down, as you wiggle the tray forward to engage the left rail. When the batteries wiggle down, you can slide the tray all the way in. Please do not try to force anything. You may have to try more than once. I removed and discarded the thin cardboard factory box items that were meant to keep the toy and controller from rolling around in the box. They were quite fragile, and worn with just age. They would no longer protect the box during shipping. I am trying to protect the box for you. Instead I have mounted the car and controller in medium density foam board so they will not shift, and these also reinforce the box from the inside. The car has some bubble wrap to fill void areas for shipping. See photos. I have padded the factory box’s outside with plenty of bubble wrap, and this sets in an inner shipping box. This box is then covered with foam board, covered by an outer cardboard shipping box. See photos. I am doing what I can to deliver to you your car and box in as good condition as I can. I will ensure the shipping. Please inspect the outer box carefully upon receipt, as damage will need to be followed up on to collect the insurance. Please let me know if there is any damage from the shipper. I know shipping is expensive.  I am paying to ship FedEx Ground.  I'll pay the insurance too.  Signature will be required. I hope you enjoy your collectable car as much as I have.